Cat Furniture

One of the most common and essential cat furniture that cat owners should have is litter boxes which help manage the litter of their pets. Another important piece of furniture designed for cats are cat trees. They provide cats with scratching posts so that they will not scratch your furniture at home. Cat trees also provide your cat with a playground which can make his stay in your home more fun while you are away at work.

If you would like to go a step further, you can buy your cat his own cat house or cat condo. Some of these have two to three “stories” and are even equipped with cat beds. Apart from cat trees, there are also scratching posts that are available in the market. These posts also protect your home furniture from your cat’s claws. There are also types of cat furniture designed for different purposes such as those built for kittens and for cats that may have a medical condition.

Owning a pet requires you to be responsible. You should see to it that your pets remain healthy especially those that are delicate and are vulnerable to many ailments such as cats. Providing your cat with cat furniture will make your cat comfortable in your home and will also train it properly.

About Litter Cleaner for Cats

Cats are intelligent pets. They instinctively know to use the litter box. Once cats are over with their business it’s time for a family member to scoop the cat’s waste out of the litter box and finish the job. This job is sometimes overlooked when loaded with busy work and school schedules leading to a smelly situation and an unhappy cat. For people who can’t clean up the litter box and are usually busy with their work or schools prefer to purchase a self cleaning litter box. Clean-up is as simple as changing a tray or waste bag once or twice a week with a self cleaning litter box.

It was a wonderful idea to invent the self cleaning litter box. The use of litter box is quite simple and helps to keep the premises clean. Once the cat has relieved themselves, the box cleans the litter itself either through a sifting process or through the use of a rake type device.

As soon as the cat exits the box an electricity mechanism starts a timer that automatically guides the self cleaning litter box to begin its work. A good self cleaning litter box is one that comes with safety precautions that ensure that the cat will not be harmed during the process.

Self cleaning litter box has a round shape if it uses shifting as a means to clean the litter. When the cat will exit the covered dome, the dome revolves for the cleaning process and the litter is shifted with the waste being discarded below the box. The litter then returned to its normal position for next use by cat.

The raking system of cleaning is used to clean a rectangular self cleaning litter box. As soon as the cat exits the box, the rake cleans all the litter and clumps of material which is the cat’s waste.

Grooming Long Haired Cat

If your cat has any knots or matted hair, gently ease the knot out with a comb or brush. Holding the knot in one hand whilst brushing with the other will prevent any pain to your cat from pulling on the coat. Longhaired, flatter-faced cat breeds need their eyes cleaned and dried weekly or even daily. Fluid cannot drain through the tear ducts properly and they are therefore prone to weeping.

If your cat starts getting fussy and giving you signs that she has had enough, you can groom the sides of her face. You can also give your cat the occasional treat.

If you think your cat may have fleas, you can end the grooming session with running a narrow-toothed comb through the coat. Grooming should not aggravate your cat, but be a pleasurable experience that can build trust and confidence. Start grooming sessions gradually with short sessions so your kitten or cat does not become bored. Never restrain your cat if they become stressed during a grooming session. Instead stop the session and try again later when they are more relaxed.

The result of grooming your cat whether it is a quick weekly brush or a daily intense grooming session is a happy cuddlesome cat. Your cat will look good and feel great.

Tame Wild Kittens

  1. Buy some canned kitty food — In my experience, kittens are always hungry and are always interested in canned kitty food. I have noticed it doesn’t matter what brand, just so long as it has fish in it. The smell of fish seems irresistible to kittens.
  2. Let the kittens smell the canned kitty food — Open the can and then try to get as close to them as possible so they can smell the food. Once they get a whiff of it, and this is especially true of younger kittens that are anywhere from four weeks old to a few months old, they will be so interested in the canned kitty food they will forget (somewhat) that you are right next to them.
  3. Use a fork (or spoon) to scoop out some of the food and let the kittens eat off the end of the fork (spoon) — This is an important step. Do NOT put a forkful of food down and then back off. From the very first, hold the fork toward the kitten and let the kitten eat off the end of the fork. Stick to your guns and do not give up. If the kitten wants canned kitty food, the kitten MUST eat it off the end of the fork or the spoon. This is the first step in getting the kitten used to being close to you and in growing accustomed to your hand coming closer. This will be useful later on when you are trying to pet the kittens. After the kitten has eaten food off the end of the fork/spoon, THEN you can put a little food down for the kitten to eat on its own.
  4. Repeat step 3 every time you offer the kittens some canned food — At first, the kittens are going to be cautious about your hand coming toward them. The fork with the food will help to overcome that resistance. After you have done this a couple of times, the kittens will look forward to eating off the fork and will start to lose their fear of you and your hand.
  5. Stay right there while the kittens are eating — After you have put out some canned food for the kittens, stay there and don’t move off. Let them eat with you next to them. This will help teach them to associate human beings with “good things.”
  6. Carefully start to pet the kittens — After feeding them a couple of times without trying to pet them, which will begin to teach them that they can trust you, put food out and let the kittens start to eat. Then slowly reach down and pet them a little bit. Continue to sit there while they finish eating.
  7. Carefully start to pick up the kittens — After you can successfully put out food and remain there while the kittens eat and can pet them a little bit, try picking up a kitten. If you can, grasp the kitten by the scruff of the neck. This is how mother cats carry their kittens, and when you do this, the kitten will go limp. Hold the kitten against your shoulder and talk softly to it, but don’t say “Hi kitten” or anything starting with an “h” sound. To a kitten, this sounds like a cat hissing, and the kitten will become frightened. Hold the kitten for a minute or so and then, grasping it by the scruff of the neck, set it down. After you have done this several times, the kitten will realize that no harms come to it from being picked up and handled.

Depending upon the age of the kittens and basic personality traits, the whole process, from starting with canned kitty food on the fork to being able to pet them and pick them up, could be accomplished in a few days or it might take a few weeks. Eventually, the kittens will know that people mean good things, and when they see you coming, they will come running to meet you. It has been my experience that cats quickly recognize when a situation is to their advantage, and once the kittens know you are a source of good things to eat and that you mean them no harm, they will want to be friends.

Mildcats

Mildcats is served by faculty, staff and students, who give generously of their time and resources for the love of cats.

Wild cats are not put up for adoption. They are trapped, neutered and released. This practice serves to reduce the wild population because the released cats return to their roles in the wild population where their interaction with the other cats does not produce offspring.

I got two cats from Mildcats. If you want to see them, pictures are posted on this website:

Mildcats is only one of many such organizations of cat lovers who hate to see them killed because of over-population. A national clearing house exists too. You can find a unit near you which will help you find a pet to adopt:

When you get a cat as a pet you should be sure that it is neutered. The world has more cats than can be taken care of. It is generally in the best interest of your cat to keep it indoors at all times. That prevents diseases and attacks which could lead to its death. Some people de-claw their cats. This is considered inhumane by most advocates of cat care. It is like cutting off the first digits of your fingers. It is painful and leaves the cat defenseless. It is cruel to do this just for your own convenience.

There is a product called soft-paws which is essentially plastic fingernails or claws which are glued on. They last about a month. Some people prefer that to clipping the points of the claws regularly. I clip my cats` claws just before feeding them their canned food for the day. When I pick up the clippers, they come-a-runnin`.

Buying a Cat Bed

When your kitten is ready for a nap gently place her in the bed and stroke her so she settles. (She may well be ready for a nap after eating or playing.) The location of the bed is very important. Cats and kittens like to have a good view of their home. If your home is new territory to them, placing the bed in a quiet corner of a room or under a table will help her feel protected from threats.

Here is a list of the types of cat beds available:

  • Plastic
  • Wicker
  • Covered / Hooded
  • Beanbag
  • Cardboard Box
  • Cushioned or fake-fur
  • Sleeping bags
  • Fleecy round beds
  • Duvets
  • Four-poster
  • Radiator cradle

There are pros and cons for each bed which include the expense of the bed, whether the bed is difficult to clean and comfort level. The main focus ought to be that the bed and bedding is easy to clean. A number of beds like the radiator cradle can harbor fleas if not washed regularly.

Another factor is the size of the bed. Cats and kittens alike prefer to curl up in a small bed. To avoid buying several beds as your kitten grows, buy a bed that she can use when she is fully grown. To reduce the excess spaces add a blanket or bedding.

Bedding should have good insulation, materials such as blankets, fleece, a pillow or cushion and veterinary pet bedding are all good sources. Your cats bed should also provide protection from draughts and be easily accessible. Buying a radiator cradle bed for an elder cat is not ideal, even though it provides the warmth your cat needs, it may find it too hard to access being raised off the floor.

Some cats simply do not take to a bed and prefer your bed or furniture; it is still a good idea to keep a cat bed for your cat. This will provide it with a safe place if she ever needs her own space. Having a few beds to place in your cats favorite places may very well limit their time on your furniture. Placing a duvet on your furniture for your cat keeps them happy and protects your furniture at the same time.

Our male cat loves to lounge on the dining room table. I placed a pillow and blanket on the table for a few months and then moved them to another table (the office desk). Which now leaves our dining room table cat free the majority of the time. He also likes to sleep on occasion in our lazy chair, I have tried placing a cat bed on the chair, but he rejected that and moved off to another chair. Our female cat loves to sleep on the office chair and we have placed a cat pad on the chair which she sleeps on happily. We are also cat-sitting a cat who is very determined to sleep on our bed most of the day and night, particularly if we are in it.

Each cat and kitten will have their own preference for a cat bed. Choosing a bed early on and spending the time to train your cat to seek out the bed for sleep will benefit both of you. If you acquire or adopt an older cat, or a determined kitten pay particular attention to the location of the bed. Cats love snug places and they need to feel safe and secure.

Brush a Long-Haired Cat

The cat sheds it seemingly continuously everywhere she goes. Her fur gets matted in places if left untouched. Hairballs form more regularly as the cat bathes and removes hair. These problems, while quite annoying for you, can be addressed to some extent by following these tips:

  • Brush Often – It’s much easier to keep your cat’s fur soft and untangled if you brush her on a regular basis for short periods of time, rather than waiting until there’s a huge tangle that will require serious attention. This should reduce shedding somewhat over time as well, as you will have removed hair that otherwise would have been left in other places.
  • Brush at the Right Time – While some cats (including mine) don’t particularly like being brushed for very long, they do seem to tolerate it more when they are distracted. I’ve taken to brushing mine right after I feed her and she is busy eating. She’ll allow me to brush her for several minutes, usually yielding a golf-ball sized clump of hair by the time she’s had enough.
  • Set Boundaries – Reduce hair in unwanted places by clearly defining where the cat is allowed and not allowed to be. Reinforce by placing obstacles where the cat would otherwise sit. You can also spray a small area with perfume to deter the cat from going to that place again. Especially if done in the cat’s younger years, she should be able to learn where she isn’t allowed.

Info Feral Cats In North America

From Europe, the cats came with the new settlers. Often, cats were carried on the ships to combat the rodent problem and they would often escape when the ship was docked. In North America, it is estimated that the cat population is over 65 million.

Cats tend to have a free ranging spirit often traveling a few square miles as their home territory from their home. These domestic cats that are free roaming are not native to the North American ecosystem. On quite the occasion, some of these cats will not return home or would be abandoned and become feral cats.

Between the feral cats and the free roaming cats, they have an impact on the ecosystem where they live. Often, this becomes a problem for the wildlife that live in the region. The cats’ prey may already be under stress or their numbers may be low. If there is an overabundance of feral cats in the region, there can be devastating effects.

In some areas, the Galapagos Islands for example, wildlife managers have had to utilize an extermination program to return certain islands to the natural ecosystem. This is an area that not only were the cats not native to the area but there was no significant human population for the cats to have just wandered away from. The occurrence of these cats becoming feral cats came about from cats that were traveling on merchant ships escaping while the ship was at the island resupplying food or water resources.

In North America, the situation is often not that severe. If you talk to people that live in rural areas that have a lot of cats, they would fill you with stories of how this cat or that cat showed up at their door as a newly born kitten in the middle of the night. Often, the comment goes back to city-folk dropping off their kittens that momma cat had and they didn’t want. They just think that the cat belongs in the country and if they drop it off near the farmhouse, the farmer will take it in and it can hunt mice and rats thereby earning its keep.

This adds an additional expense to the farmer and more often than not, these cats will not receive medical care and worse, they will mate and reproduce until there are too many to care for. Let me paint a vivid picture from a farmer I knew. He commented: “when the number of cats and kittens gets to be too many, I would just gather up some of the extra kittens, put them in a burlap sack, tie it shut and throw it in the lake. After they are dead, I would pull the bag out of the water and bury it in the ground”.

There are alternatives. If you took the cats to the veterinarian, you could have them spayed or neutered. There is an expense involved with this and unfortunately has been a problem with the rural landowner in this forced adoption situation. As we are becoming more aware, there are more spay and neuter clinics coming to assistance and some of these programs are conducting catch and release programs.

Cat Behaviors

One common thing you will inevitably see your cat do is push their head into anything that will support the weight: couch legs, tables, piles of paper and, if you’re lucky, maybe even your outstretched hand. You’ll notice this behavior even more when people who either own other animals are over, or people who are allergic are visiting. The reason for all this is the same: the cat is trying to “own” the various things by putting their saliva on them. When your cat rubs the side of his mouth against things, he’s putting a little bit of saliva on it, creating a scent that will then be familiar and comforting to them. This, coupled with the fact that it is also a soothing mechanism, explains why cats often prefer being stroked near the edges of their mouth. It will likely infuriate your allergic visitors to no end, but understand that the cat sees this visitor as an oddity, since they will likely have no scent at all. Your cat simply wants this visitor to belong to the house and therefore will brush against them several times in an effort to put a scent on them.

Unfortunately, cat saliva is the most common form of pet allergy (contrary to the popular thought of pet dander) and thus a vicious cycle of cleaning off the saliva only to have the cat put the saliva back on later ensues. Most people will just find it funny that the cat is targeting the allergic person, but to the cat, they are just trying to make the guest a member of the house. If your guest can stand it, let the cat rub on their pant leg a couple of times and likely that will be all it takes to have the cat leave them alone.

If your cat is an indoor cat, expect them to spend some time lounging near windows, especially during their playtime. You’ll probably hear strange meows that seem to stutter and come from the back of their throat. You may also see their tail flick violently, knocking down whatever is on or near the window ledge. Fear not, your cat is not sick or possessed, it’s simply acting out it’s hunting instinct on whatever creatures, leaves, or falling objects it sees outside. Your best bet is to concede a window ledge or two in your home and to leave the shades pulled up enough so your cat can freely flick away, perhaps even pouncing into the window from time to time, without causing any damage. Trying to fight this instinct will ultimately leave you with broken blinds, picture frames and whatever else you may have near the windows. If you want to see their behavior play out in full, drag an object on the ground with a piece of string and watch them go crazy to try and pounce it. You’ll see very similar behaviors to what they show at the window ledge. Don’t worry, this behavior of pouncing is not only normal, it’s healthy. Play with your cats in this way to give them exercise and to let them pounce around.

Training Your Kitten

  • Kittens need exercise. If this is not done in the form of toys for Kitty to play with, Kitty will become restless and could do damage to you or your home. Make sure Kitty has plenty of his or her own toys to bite and kick and chase after. Notice I said “his or her own toys.” Toys do not include your body parts. Never let the kitten use your arm or feet as toys to bite. Again, it’s cute when they’re kittens, but when the 3-year-old cat attacks your bare feet because you made it think your feet are toys, it’s no longer cute. It’s painful.
  • Since kittens are not yet toilet trained, it’s best to start by teaching it what to do with a litter box. The litter box should be big enough for Kitty to enter and move around. If you adopted your kitten from the Humane Society or rescue group, chances are Kitty has been around a cat box. But, in case your new kitten has never been introduced to a litter box, you will have to make the introductions.

Cats usually do their business after a meal or a nap. So, after Kitty finishes her meal is finished, play with her for about10-15 minutes, somewhere near the litter box. Lead her to the box. Move the litter around with your hand to intrigue Kitty with the texture of the litter, inviting her to step into it. Encourage Kitty once she steps inside, speaking to her in gentle tones. Make Kitty feel that the box is a nice and comfortable place. Whether she soils in the box or not, be consistent with that tone. Eventually, she will like the litter box and do her business there. Finally, be consistent and patient. Results may not come right away, but the training will pay off in time.

  • The claws of kittens are not that sharp yet compared to older cats, so right now Kitty isn’t too dangerous around the furniture. But, kittens grow up soon, and it’s best to teach them that a scratching post is where they should sharpen their claws, and not on your favorite chair. You might want to sprinkle some catnip on the scratching post to get Kitty interested. When you see Kitty sharpen her claws on the scratching post, be sure to praise her, or offer her a treat.

Praising the kitten for doing a good job and feeding it as a reward will help in teaching the kitten how to behave inside the house. It’s obvious to most of us, but it should be said – never shout at or hit your kitten.