Training Parrot

This will include both time and patience to correctly train your bird. by taking your time and being patient you will create a bond with your parrot that will last a lifetime.

By following a few very easy steps you can easily start the training for your bird. First thing is when you start your training session always take the bird out of the cage and find a small quiet area away from the cage. This will make it much easier for your parrot to stay focused and devoted to the task at hand.

The next step is to eliminate all distractions in the training area. Distractions in the training area will cause your parrot to get sidetracked and will result in a poor learning session. make sure you turn off the stereo,cell phone and TV.

Remember this, Parrots are like raising your young children. Training sessions should be small periods of time, Parrots have very small attention spans so take your time and always be patient.

Another thing to remember choose your session time around the bird’s daily schedule. One of the best times to start a training session Is right after a meal, Your bird will be content and pay attention to what you are teaching. Always compliment your parrot, The more the better. Parrots really appreciate being complimented.

OK now this is very important, In the beginning of your training if it does not seem to be working at a level you wish it was. Never let your parrot see your stress level If you get mad and show your stress level to your bird, This will cause a undesirable encounter for the parrot which will in return cause a focus and learning problem in future training sessions.

Now its time to teach your bird a new trick. If you use a treat to compliment the trick your bird will remember this and start to work for the treat. Another thing you should always remember is: Not just birds but all animals respond to training session better to compliment compared to punishment or yelling at them. Always avoid yelling or punishing your bird even when they are performing a trick wrong.

Ignoring bad conduct is always the best thing to do when in a training session with your bird. Parrots do not understand a unfavorable offer or punishment. So this being said understand that if you decide to respond to your parrots bad behavior this may in fact be taken into view from the bird as constructive attention. This in return will cause undesirable conclusions to the training sessions.

Also remember your parrot will always love food and treats for compliments, but always try to praise worthy conduct and promote play around time. otherwise, you will have a problem getting your bird to perform or participate in training tricks when a snack or treat is not offered.

Repeating the tricks over and over again is very important to being successful in the training of your pet. The more you repeat the better your parrot will get. Just keep repeating these training steps over and over, And in time your parrot will learn the tricks and it will get easier for your bird to complete the trick. This general instructions concept will work for easy tricks as well as advanced talents.

For instance start out with a easy trick like having your parrot sit on your finger on demand. Use only 1 Keyword for each trick, And use the keyword every time you practice the trick. Remember never force or push your bird to train. If your bird seems to be tired or uninterested in training, Immediately stop the session and start the training session at a later time.

As time goes on and your parrot starts to learn tricks and commands you can start moving the training area closer to the bird’s cage. As the confidence builds in your parrots unique skill they will begin to perform more and more in the household as well as there own bird cage.

Parrots learn amazingly fast in almost all cases. Not only by repeating training sessions but by just listening to sounds around them. So be careful what you repeat around them because chances are you will hear your own words sometime in the near future.

Just remember a few important things training a parrot requires a lot of patience and time. To make the partnership worthwhile you have to exchange love and take the time to understand your bird. With love training and proper care you can and will end up with a well trained bird and friendship that will last a lifetime.

Dog Ear Infections: Symptoms, Causes, Treatment, and Prevention

  • As many as 20 percent of dogs have some form of ear disease
  • Dogs are more prone to ear infections than humans because of the shape of their ear canals
  • Prevention is key — learn how to clean your dog’s ears safely
  • If your dog is showing any of the common signs of ear infections, it’s important to visit your veterinarian as soon as possible

Purchase a safe ear-cleaning solution for your dog

Many dog owners have learned to recognize the telltale signs of an ear infection: whining, scratching, and head shaking are often the first symptoms of the problem.

Ear infections are common conditions in dogs, especially those with floppy ears such as Basset Hounds and Cocker Spaniels. An estimated 20 percent of dogs have some form of ear disease, which may affect one or both ears. Fortunately, there are steps you can take to reduce the length and severity of these episodes for your dog.

There are three types of ear infections, known formally as otitis externa, media, and interna. The most common is otitis externa, in which inflammation affects the layer of cells lining the external portion of the ear canal. Otitis media and Interna refer to infections of the middle and inner ear canal, respectively. These infections often result from the spread of infection from the external ear. Otitis media and interna can be very serious and may result in deafness, facial paralysis, and vestibular signs. That’s why it’s important to prevent infections and seek early treatment when problems arise.

Symptoms of Dog Ear Infections

Some dogs show no symptoms of ear infection aside from a buildup of wax and discharge in the ear canal. But ear infections often cause significant discomfort and affected dogs may show signs such as:

  • Head shaking
  • Scratching at the affected ear
  • Dark discharge
  • Odor
  • Redness and swelling of the ear canal
  • Pain
  • Itchiness
  • Crusting or scabs in the ears

What Causes Ear Infections in Dogs?

The canine ear canal is more vertical than that of a human, forming an L-shape that tends to hold in fluid. This makes dogs more prone to ear infections. Ear infections are typically caused by bacteria, yeast, or a combination of both. In puppies, ear mites can also be a source of infection.

Factors that may predispose your dog to ear infections include:

  • Moisture, which can create a prime growing environment for bacteria and yeast
  • Allergies, which lead to ear disease in about 50 percent of dogs with allergic skin disease and 80 percent of dogs with food sensitivities
  • Endocrine disorders, such as thyroid disease
  • Autoimmune disorders
  • Wax buildup
  • Foreign bodies
  • Injury to the ear canal
  • Excessive cleaning

Precise Diagnosis Needed for a Dog’s Ear Infections

If your dog is showing any of the common signs of ear infections, it’s important to visit your veterinarian as soon as possible. Quick treatment is necessary not only for your dog’s comfort (these conditions can be painful!), but also to prevent the spread of infection to the middle and inner ear. Do not try to treat ear problems at home.

Be prepared to provide your vet with a thorough history of the problem. This is especially important for first-time infections, or if you are seeing a new veterinarian. Your vet will want to know the following:

  • Duration of any symptoms, such as pain, swelling, discharge, and odor
  • If your dog has any allergies or other underlying medical conditions
  • If your dog is on medication
  • What your dog has been eating
  • How often you clean your dog’s ears and which products you use
  • If you’ve trimmed or plucked the hair in your dog’s ears
  • Recent activities, such as baths, grooming, or swimming
  • If your dog has a history of ear infections, when they occurred, and how they were treated

After obtaining your dog’s history, your veterinarian will perform a physical examination. In severe cases, your vet may also recommend sedating your dog to facilitate examination deep within the ear canal. Your vet will evaluate both ears, and the exam may include:

  • Visual assessment to look for signs such as redness, swelling, and discharge
  • Examination with an otoscope, which allows evaluation of the ear canal and eardrum
  • Gentle palpation of the ear to assess level of pain
  • Microscopic examination of samples taken by swabbing the ear
  • Culture of samples from the ear
  • Biopsies or X-rays in severe or chronic cases

How are Dog Ear Infections Treated?

Your veterinarian will thoroughly clean your dog’s ears using a medicated cleaner. Your vet may also prescribe a cleaner and a topical medication for you to use at home. In severe cases, your vet may prescribe oral antibiotics and anti-inflammatory medications.

Most uncomplicated ear infections resolve within 1–2 weeks, once appropriate treatment begins. But severe infections or those due to underlying conditions may take months to resolve or may become chronic problems. In cases of severe chronic disease where other treatments have failed, your veterinarian may recommend surgery such as a Total Ear Canal Ablation (TECA). A TECA surgery removes the ear canal, thus removing the diseased tissue and preventing the recurrence of infection.

It is important to follow your veterinarian’s instructions closely and return to the veterinary hospital for any recommended recheck appointments. Lapses in your dog’s treatment may lead to the recurrence of the infection. It is especially important that you finish the full course of your dog’s medication, even if your dog appears to be getting better. Failure to finish the full course of treatment may lead to additional problems such as resistant infections.

Can You Prevent Ear Infections in Dogs?

As with most diseases, prevention is always best. Excess moisture is a common cause of ear infections, so be sure to thoroughly dry your dog’s ears after swimming and bathing. If your dog is prone to chronic or recurrent ear infections, identifying and managing any underlying causes such as allergies can help prevent new infections from occurring.

Cleaning your dog’s ears at home can also help prevent ear infections. Jeff Grognet, DVM, a columnist for AKC Family Dog, advises the following steps for ear cleaning: “First, fill the canal with a cleaning solution and massage the vertical ear canal from the outside. Wipe out the canal with absorbent gauze. Don’t use paper towels or cotton because these may leave fibers behind, and those could cause irritation.” Cotton swabs may also be useful for cleaning your dog’s pinnae (the external ear flaps) but avoid using them in the ear canal, which may inadvertently push debris deeper into the canal.

Ear infections are a common and often recurrent problem in many dogs, but, with your veterinarian’s help, you can keep your dog’s ears clean and comfortable. If your dog is showing signs of an ear infection, seek treatment right away to ensure the problem does not become serious.

Caring for Baby Iguanas

In order to begin caring for the babies, you have to ensure that they are born into a healthy environment. If you have a female iguana that is about to lay eggs, this section applies to you. Ensure that your mother iguana has a safe, clean and quiet place to lay her eggs. The female iguana likes to bury her eggs, so fill the enclosure or cage with soft dirt for the burial. If you suspect that one of the female iguana’s eggs has gotten “stuck” inside her reproductive system, you may need to take the mother iguana to the veterinarian for x-rays. Once the mother has laid and buried her eggs, she will be very defensive of them, so keep this in mind when tending to the enclosure. When the time comes, the eggs will hatch, and the baby iguanas will be born. Do not force them to come out and do not disturb them while they are in the process of being born.

It is important that babies live in the right kind of shelter. Make sure that the cage has artificial turf or some kind of carpeting to help keep the temperature warm. You can also use newspapers to line the cage if you cannot obtain artificial turf. The cage should also have a heating lamp or some kind of heater, especially if the nights are cold. Put a thermometer inside the cage so you can monitor the temperature. The ideal temperature for the cage should be 70 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Last but not least, place some branches or something for the iguana to climb on.

A baby iguana’s diet is also very important. Their diet should consist of food that contains Vitamin D3, phosphorus and calcium. Leafy greens should be a part of their diet. You can also feed the iguana the kinds of fruits and vegetables you eat on a regular basis, such as the aforementioned leafy greens like lettuce and berries. They have a delicate digestive system, so you cannot just feed them anything. Stick to the vegetables and fruit mentioned and they should be fine. Also ensure that they have plenty of clean water. You can also try going to your local pet store for specialized iguana food.

About Box Turtle Pet Care

HOUSING

Box turtles need a big size enclosure in order to provide for the proper range of heating and humidity.

The smallest size indoor housing for one box turtle to be kept in is 3 x 3 x 2 feet. For two turtles, the minimum size should be at least 4 x 4 x 2 feet. Aquariums are not appropriate housing for an adult box turtle. Babies may be kept in aquariums, but as they grow larger enclosures are needed.

Create a land area using 2 to 3 inches of good quality plain sterile potting soil slightly moistened. Do not use backyard dirt of soil from a garden.. Do not used coarse substrates such are gravel or sand, as these tend to scratch the shell and open the way for bacterial infections.

Box turtles require a hide box in which to get away from it all and feel secure. A good size box in one corner of the enclosure, filled with hay in which to burrow. is essential. The hide box can be anything from a cardboard box to a plastic container with a door cut into it.

A water area must be provided with its deep enough that the water comes to just about the nose of the turtle. It doesn’t need to be able to swim, just to soak. If using a kitty litter pan, it is best to sink this into the substrate and provide a ramp to get in and get out for the turtle.

The water area must be kept clean at all times. Box turtles not only use the water to soak in but also relieve themselves in.

LIGHTING

Full spectrum lighting is required for indoor enclosures. Full spectrum light mimics the beneficial effects of natural sunlight, enabling the turtle to metabolize vitamin D3. The full spectrum lighting is an essential part of the calcium metallization process. Without the specific wavelengths and proper diet, calcium deficiencies will result which may ultimately prove fatal. Box Turtles need 12 to 14 hours of light each day. NOTE: UV waves cannot pass through glass, and 40% of the available waves are lost when the light passes through an aluminum screen, try to have the light shining directly on them.

HUMIDITY/TEMPERATURE

Day Time temps: 85 to 88 degrees

Night Time temps: 70 to 75 degrees.

Most box turtles require a relative humidity of 60 to 80% in at least one area of their enclosure. Turtle that are not provided with the correct humidity often suffer from infected and swollen eyes and ear infections. Providing humidity is simple, in one corner of the enclosure provide some peat moss and wet it down with water until it is fairly moist. A hiding area, such as a cardboard box or large plastic container with ventilation holes should be placed over the wet peat moss. Be sure to check the moss constantly to ensure it is moist and has not dried out.

HIBERNATION

It is a good idea to allow your box turtle to hibernate, especially if you keep it in an outdoor enclosure during the summer months.This is to allow the box turtles internal clock to remain normal. If you choose not to hibernate the turtle, you must keep it warm and provide plenty of UV lighting along with their normal dietary needs.

To prepare a box turtle for hibernation, do not feed the animal for two weeks, but keep the heat on to allow the animal to fully digest any food remaining in its stomach and intestinal tract. Soak the box turtle in a shallow container of lukewarm water a few times during this period for about 10 minutes, this will help to hydrate the animal and to remove any food left in their system. Box turtle that hibernate with food still present in their intestinal tract can die from massive infections as the food rots inside them.

Hibernating box turtles indoor requires a hibernation box. A cardboard box half filled with moist sterile potting soil or peat moss with holes punched in the sides for aeration is an appropriate hibernation box. After all the food has been cleared from the turtle’s system, introduce the turtle to the hibernation box. If the box turtle buries down into the substrate and remains still, it is ready for hibernation. If the animal is moving restlessly around after 20 minutes in the box, return if to its enclosure, wait a few days and try again. If the box turtle is ready, move it to an unheated room, such as a garage, where the temperature will remain between 40 to 55 degrees. Check the box turtle weekly to make sure is has not surfaced prematurely. Box turtles usually come out of hibernation after experiencing temperature above 65 degrees for a few days. After the turtle comes out of hibernation, return it to its regular enclosure, provide water, warm it up for a couple of days, and then offer some food. Pay close attention to the turtle during the time after hibernation to observe for any health problems that may occur.

DIET

It is best to offer food after the turtle has had a few hours to warm up in the morning. Young turtle require feeding on a daily basis, while adult can be fed every other day. Make sure you combine their diet with both plant and animal matter. Vitamin supplements should be added twice a week.

Plants: A variety of vegetables, greens and fruits are a must. Such as a “salad” of carrots, squash green beans, strawberries, cranberries, blackberries, cherries, and plums. Some cantaloupe (with the rind), mustard greens, dandelions, and collard greens can also be mixed in. For treats you can add flowers like hibiscus, rose petals, and geraniums.

Meat: High quality low-fat canned dog food, finely chopped cooked chicken or raw beef heart. Live food can also be offered, like meal worms and crickets.

Find The Right Vet For Your Pet Bunny Rabbit

Finding the right Vet

Waiting until you have an emergency on your hands to find a vet is never a good idea. For one thing, you’ll wind up racing around trying to find just anyone who can help you, and you may end up with a mediocre vet or one who overcharges you. For another thing, many vets don’t have much experience with pet rabbits, and it is in your pet’s best interest to find a vet who knows a great deal about rabbits.

So find a good vet now, before you even need one. You’ll be putting yourself in a much better position should your pet require emergency care down the line. Moreover, having a vet will make you much more likely to take your rabbit for regular checkups and important procedures like spaying/neutering and clipping or teeth-trimming.

Choosing the Right Vet

It can be next to impossible to find a good vet simply by scrolling through names in a phonebook or even just looking online. You should visit offices, check out the environment, ask others in the office what the vet is like, and so on.

Talk to the vet him- or herself. Ask him how familiar he is with rabbits?how many rabbits does he see per month? Does he have training with regard to rabbits? Does he know the common health concerns that rabbit pet-owners have to worry about? Can he give you advice on rabbit diets? What about clipping and teeth-trimming? Will he be able to help you with that?

This kind of in-person research is the best way to ensure that you select a vet who is knowledgeable, has a good reputation, has a clear office environment, and has experience with pet rabbits in particular.

Successfully Grooming Rabbit

Rabbits go through a shedding cycle about once every three months. During the shedding period, many rabbits will shed a substantial amount of hair and will even go bald in certain spots. Unless you assist them in removing this hair, they will groom themselves and ingest a substantial amount of fur. With some rabbits, you can simple run your fingers through their coats and pull out the excess hair. Others, like long haired rabbits, require more maintenance including the use of brushes and scissors to keep the hair at a minimum.

There are two types of effective brushes you can use on your rabbit, petting brushes and slicker brushes. Petting brushes are more gentle on the rabbit’s delicate skin, but slicker brushes are more efficient at grabbing and removing large quantities of fur. The type of brush you choose to use should depend on your rabbit’s temperament. Remember to always be gentle while grooming your rabbit, as they can become easily frightened or upset.

If your rabbit begins to act lethargic and listless after shedding season, it is possible that they have eaten too much of their own hair and they have become unable to digest their own food. If this occurs you should consult a specialized rabbit veterinarian. With consistent, proper grooming skills, your rabbit should maintain a healthy coat and stay free from hairball problems.

Dog Vaccinations

Maruchy had researched the the breed for two years before she met the breeder who lived about five hours away from where Maruchy lived.

Bailey was born in Brooksville forty miles north of Tampa on the 4th of July. The breeder sent pictures of the litter to Maruchy after they were born, and Maruchy picked Bailey out from the many pictures she received while on the Disney ship.

Bailey went home with Maruchy some nine weeks later, and she was everything Marchy had hoped for. She was a hand full but a lot of fun.

But it wasn’t long before the challenges started. Maruchy noticed that Bailey was sick a lot, with either hives or vomiting or diarrhea or all three. Maruchy repeatedly took Bailey to the vet who usually gave her cortisone for the hives, and pills to prevent dehydration.

When she was four months old Bailey was given her rabies shot.

Over the next four months, Bailey went from a loving puppy to a very nasty and aggressive dog with BIG teeth.

Maruchy spoke to the vet, the breeder, animal trainers, and anyone who she thought might be able to help. Bailey had become so aggressive that at one point it seemed as everyone was saying “put her down”.

Maruchy couldn’t bear the though of it. She was desperate to find a better solution. After another month of living in fear, Maruchy contacted an “animal communicator”, Diane Samsel, who told Maruchy to take Bailey off the commercial dog food she was on immediately, and to find a holistic doctor. The animal communicator also advised Maruchy to let the holistic doctor know that Bailey had “auto immune vaccinosis”.

Maruchy did exactly what the animal communicator suggested. She ceased the commercial dog food, and set up a consultation with a holistic doctor, knowing that Bailey was a very sick little dog, and determined to save Bailey from a terrible fate.

Bailey showed signs of improvement withiin two days of being totally off commercial dog food! Maruchy started her on a raw food only diet and went to see a wonderful doctor who agreed to consult with Maruchy and treat Bailey. With the animal communicator’s guidance, Maruchy instructed and helped the doctor give Bailey the holistic medicines she needed to get her back on track.

Maruchy’s understanding of Auto Immune Vaccinosis is that it is a condition which can arise when the body has been given so much poison by way of vaccines, that the body starts to reject one of its own organs. In Bailey’s case, her body was rejecting her liver. Bailey couldn’t control herself and was in a lot of pain, and she regressed to a behaviour reminiscent of times past when aggression was actively encouraged in bull terriers in order to fight them. The liver is also said to be the recepticle for feelings, from a holistic point of view, including anger.

Who is a candidate for Auto Immune Vaccinosis? Basically anything that lives and has organs that can be poisoned by injecting the body with the so called “anti-virus”. In other words, pets are at a very high risk due to the very high number and frequency of so-called essential vaccinations. And because the vaccinations aren’t necessarily given in doses which take into account the animal’s size, small dogs are probably at greater risk than large ones. But any dog can be susceptible.

Now that Maruchy has eliminated the vaccines and petfood toxins from Bailey’s system, she’s very careful not to expose Bailey to other poisons – including household chemicals.

Dog Communication

Failure to understand your dog’s behaviour and how to properly train your dog is the cause of dissatisfaction with their dog. Some people will even give up on their dogs and could even abandon them in some instances. All because they failed to properly communicate and undersrtand their dog. What a terrible tragedy!

Actually, your dog really does communicate with you for much of the time you spend together. So not learning to understand your dog’s body language is similar to living your life with someone who speaks another language, and never learning to communicate with that person by learning any of that other language.

Two way communication with anyone in your life is obviously important, and especially with your dog who does “speak another language”.

Dogs love to play, but their primary concern is often their position in your “pack”. Dogs will always make attempts to get to the top dog position if you allow this to go on.

Some dogs do this as a game to see how much they can get away with, (my Kara is like this). Other dogs can actually take this issue very seriously, and may threaten any “pack” member who doesn’t defer to them – sometimes even including their owner. Large dogs often like to jump up and stand with their front paws on the owner’s shoulders. This can be a friendly gesture, but is often actually a posture of dominance.

A better greeting to encourage your dog to use is to have your dog sit and then for you offer a greeting to your dog. In this way, the dog has assumed a subordinate posture, and you retains your leadership role and your position as the “top dog”. And your dog loves this exchange with you. The important thing is that your dog understands his/her position in the “pack”.

One of the most tragic misinterpretations of body language I’ve heard about involves what’s called the canine grin. Many dogs, when they are happy and excited, pull their lips back in a happy grin, which is actually a submissive gesture. They are simply very happy, but some owners have actually misinterpreted this submissive grin as a snarl and, heaven forbid, a few have even had the dog euthanized because of what they thought was aggression in their dog.

Isn’t this tragic? And all because the owner hasn’t taken the time and trouble to understand what their dog is actually trying to communicate to them.

I’m sure you’re in the category of people who can understand what your dog is saying, just like me.

On a lighter note, I was only talking to a friend recently (also a dog lover – she has four Jack Russell crosses) about how we often know just what our dog is saying. I was telling her how Jet, my Staffie holds her own with other dogs. In fact, it’s a pretty brave dog who will take my Jet on.

Some time ago, when Jet and I were walking past a house in our street where there is a large Japanese Fighting Dog, it escaped and decided to have a domination fight with Jet. I couldn’t believe it, but Jet won!!! (if you don’t know what Japanese Fighting Dogs look like, they’re about four times the size of Jet).

Anyway, ever since then, when we walk past, that dog races to its gate and starts to bark. Then Jet stops, looks directly at the dog, barks non-stop for several seconds and then turns and keeps walking.

I said to Isadora, my friend, that Jet’s saying to the dog: “Now, you listen to me … I thought I got this straightened out with you before – Don’t you mess with me!” Isadora laughed, but understood completely. She commented that people who don’t have dogs would probably think we were mad to think that we know what our dogs are saying!

Allergies in Dogs

Common Signs and Symptoms of Dog Allergies

Common signs and symptoms of dog allergies include your dog licking her paws, scratching her body or pawing at her ears (due to inflammation). In severe cases, you dog may have oozing hot spots on her body. Allergies may be seasonable or your pet may suffer all year round, depending on the allergen.

How to Avoid Allergens

Avoiding allergens should be the first step in treating your dog’s allergies. If you suspect your dog may have allergies, see your vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

If you dog is allergic to dust mites, vets suggest you use a plastic cover over your dog’s bed, use a waterproof liner to keep mites from getting in the bed, avoid letting your dog on upholstered furniture and avoid stuffed animals. Dogs with dust mite allergies do best in uncarpeted rooms. Be sure to vacuum very frequently.

If you dog has allergic reactions to pollens, keep him out of fields and tall grasses. Keep your lawn cut short and keep your dog indoors during days with high pollen counts.

How Are Allergies Treated in Dogs?

Typically, mild allergies are treated with soothing shampoos liked oatmeal shampoo, vitamins containing essential fatty acids to help stop itching and keep skin from getting dry. Hydrocortisone spray or shampoo may also help to relieve itching. Check with your vet for other recommendations.

Best Dog Breeds If YOU Have Allergies

If you suffer from dog allergies, the following dog breeds may be a good choice for you because they don’t shed much, or have hair rather than fur: Terriers, Chinese Crested (hairless), Italian Greyhound, Maltese (has coat similar to human hair), Shih Tzu (has hair rather than fur), Poodle (little shedding). Other popular low-breeds are crosses with Poodles such as the Cockapoo and Labradoodle. Keep in mind that no dog is completely non-shedding, except perhaps hairless breeds!

Teach a Dog To Swim

I would suggest starting your dog out in a pool or shallow lake where you can enter the water with your dog. Many dogs will be more confident if you are standing with them if they are nervous about venturing out on their own. So by walking out, you can build their confidence before letting them go on their own. Bring a favorite toy with you and encourage them out further by tossing the toy short distances and swimming over to it.

Bring another dog who knows how to swim along to help encourage your pet to try.

There are life vests (life jackets) you can purchase to aide in teaching your dog. These usually have handles that you can hold onto easily and are helpful for getting a dog back into a boat.

Here is a common problem. Your pup goes off and won’t come back. You have two choices, swim out and get them, or wait until they get tired and come back. Never let them off leash and away from you until you know for a fact they will return or start in shallow water where you can go get them should you need to.

I use a two toy approach to retrieving and swimming. I always keep one close by so I can toss it near me. Try to make a lot of noise to get their attention and toss it into the shallow water. Tennis balls are not the best choice as they can get lodged in the throat blocking the airway. I really like kong retrieving toys or retrieving bumpers.